How to Build Built-Ins with a Bench Seat

Seriously you guys I STILL can't believe how good these DIY built-ins with a bench seat turned out! Just ask my neighbor - she's probably seen me standing and staring at them daily through our front window.

Ok. Kidding (maybe.)

I'd thought through this project 100 times through in my head - maybe in the middle of the night. I was super nervous to take on such a big build with only basic building experience cause - I ain't no fool. I know how difficult the finish work can be to get looking pro. But like my dad always said - "If you aren't nervous, you aren't ready."

So my nerves just meant that I cared a whole heck of a lot about making these built-ins look like I'd hired a professional. So I dove in… and the result? 😍

DIY built-ins with a bench seat that add a TON of character to my suburban cookie cutter tract home.

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before + After: Why We Needed These Built-Ins

The living room before

When we bought our home everything was builder grade and very, very off-white.

I tried adding personality by painting the walls light blue, created a faux hexagon wallpaper with a Sharpie and installed DIY wooden shelves, but it still felt like a bunch of furniture in a room floating in space - not like somewhere cozy and inviting I'd want to hang out.

After adding built-ins

The DIY built-ins with a bench seat totally changed the entire room.

• More character
• More seating (without taking up valuable floor space)
• More storage

And now the bench seat is one of my favorite spots in the whole house - the colors and vibe in here are so refreshing and very much "us."

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Project Overview: What This Build Involves

I wouldn't call this a total beginner project, but if you can handle simple power tools and follow instructions, you can totally do this. - For what it's worth I did almost all of this project by myself.

Two key components made this so much easier:

• Ikea base cabinets for the lower portion
• Home Depot wood cutting for the large wood pieces

This post is a visual walkthrough. For step-by-step instructions based on the measurements of your home, you can get instant access to printable instructions + measurements worksheet here.

How To Build Built-Ins With A Bench Seat

PHASE 1 - Build the base cabinets + bench seat

Step 1: Build and place the Ikea cabinets

I assembled the base cabinets, and placed them at each end, securing them to the wall with a screws from inside the cabinets.

If you have outlets behind them, cut access holes in the back to expose the outlet before securing them.

Step 2: Attach the counter tops

I cut both pieces from one Ikea Lilltrask countertop so that each cabinet got a finished inside edge.

I followed the instructions that came with the countertop to attach it to each base cabinet using the included hardware.

Step 3: Install the first 2 x 6 support

I ran a 2 x 6 from wall to wall beneath the cabinets and secured it using wood screws through the bottom of each cabinet from the inside.

Step 4: Frame the bench seat

Place four  2 x 6 supports perpendicular from the already placed 2 x 6 equal distances apart.

Next I built four 2 x 4 rectangle frames and attached them to each 2 x 6 piece using wood screws and a drill bit holder to extend the reach of our drill.

The rectangles come out to the same depth as the cabinet.

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This is what it looks like when the cabinets are placed and the bench seat is framed.

Step 5: Add The Front Panel

Cut a front panel from your sheet of plywood that is the same height as the 2x4 rectangles + the thickness of your plywood and is as long as the bench seat and give it an initial coat of paint.

Then attach the from panel of the bench seat (with a buddy.) Holding the front panel of the bench seat in place, we lined up the bottom edge with the bottom edge of the rectangle supports and attached the front panel using wood screws at the top and bottom of each support.

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Step 6: Add The Top Panel

Cut another piece of plywood the length of the bench seat and the depth of the bench seat from the wall to the back side of the front panel.

Secure the bench top it with wood screws at the support points.

Attach a flat trim piece to hide the seam along the edge using a nailer. - This creates a small "lip" to hold the bench cushion in place.

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PHASE 2 - Build the bookshelves

Step 7: Drill pocket holes

With the Kreg Pocket Hold Jig, I added two pocket holes on the underside of each shelf piece (except the top shelf) and on the inside of each side panel at the top.

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For each shelf unit you'll have three shelves with four pocket holes each, one top piece, and two side panels with two pocket holes at the top.

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Step 8: Attach the shelves

I laid one side piece down flat on the floor with the inside facing up (the side with the pocket holes.)

Next I measured and marked the spacing for each shelf starting at the bottom of the side piece and made the marks on both edges.

To attach each shelf, I lined the bottom side of each shelf up with the marks (pocket holes facing the bottom of the side piece) and attached with Kreg screws.

* Be careful because at this point the shelves are unstable.

I repeated this for each shelf.

Step 9: Attach the top shelf

I placed the top shelf next to the top of the side panel (so its edge is on the floor) and attached it with a Kreg screw using the pocket holes I made on the side piece.

Step 10: Attach the second side panel

I laid my second side panel flat, pocket hole side up, then carefully flipped the bookshelf unit over onto it.

I measured and marked just like I did on the first side panel and lined up the bottom edge of each shelf before securing with a Kreg screw.

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Steps 11-12: Place + secure each bookshelf

I set the bookshelf on top of the base cabinet. Line it up so that it's square with the base cabinet and as close to the side and back wall as possible.

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I repeated steps 7-12 for the other bookshelf.

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(Optional) Drill for outlet access

We drilled two-inch holes with a hole saw in the countertop's back corners so we could feed cords down to the outlets and finished them with furniture hole covers to keep them pretty.

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PHASE 3 - Add trim for that custom built-in look

Steps 13-15: Attach trim to bookshelves

To add side trim to my shelves for a more finished and substantial look, I cut 1 x 2 birch pieces as follows:

• Cut a 1 x 2 to the height of my shelf unit (not including the top shelf)
• Attached it with a nailer, lining up the outside edges of the trim and shelf.
• Placed the wall-side trim as close to the wall as possible while keeping it straight.

*Expect a slight overhang on the inside edge of the shelf.

For shelf trim I measured the space between the vertical trim pieces I'd just installed, then cut and attached a 1 x 2, lining the top edge up with the top of the shelf.

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For top trim, I measured, cut, and attached one final 1 x 2 across the top shelf.

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Steps 16-17: Install crown molding

This was the first time I'd ever done any crown molding and to say it can be complicated is an understatement.

After making some mistakes and doing further research, I discovered this Kreg Crown Pro tool that made the entire process easy (seriously, a game changer).

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I followed the instructions on the tool to get perfect measurements and angles. Then I leaned the crown molding against the Crown Pro (it holds it at the perfect angle for you) to make the cut with a 12" miter saw**.

**I had to rent this saw because mine is 10" and cutting 5" crown with the Crown Pro didn't allow enough clearance to make my cuts. The bigger saw did the trick.

After cutting I tested my corners to make sure they lined up nicely.

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I attached the crown molding along the top trim piece and ceiling with a nailer.

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Steps 18-20 Add bench seat front trim

I used 2-½" x ¼" poplar pieces to mimic the look of the Ikea cabinet door fronts.

Because my bench seat is 92" long I decided to measure and build 3 rectangles across the front panel of the bench. I planned out my measurements on paper before starting.

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Starting on the left side, I took these steps:

• Cut one vertical piece the height of the front panel and attached it with a nailer.
• Cut two horizontal pieces and attached them, leaving a tiny gap between the trim pieces to mimic the detail on my cabinet doors.
• Added the bottom vertical trim piece.

I repeated those steps starting at the opposite end of my front panel.

For the middle rectangle I attached the two vertical pieces first, then measured, cut and attached the horizontal pieces - these may be slightly different lengths from your previous horizontal pieces because of the tiny gaps you've created.

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PHASE 4 - Prep + Paint

Steps 21-23: Fill + Sand

I punched in each nail with a nail punch so that it's just below the surface of the wood and fill them with wood putty. Then I filled the pocket holes with plastic wood and let everything dry before sanding.

Using a fine grit sand paper, I sanded everything smooth and removed dust with a damp cloth.

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Step 24: Caulk all seams

Caulking all seams, even the tiniest ones, is what makes them look built-in.

Caulking tips…

• Small gaps (⅛” or less): run a thin line of caulk along the seam
  • Twist the tip of your caulking gun shut, dip your index finger in a small bowl of water, and run it along the seam, pressing a but to create a smooth line.
  • Wipe the excess on a damp paper towel and move on to your next seam.
• Large gaps: These need an extra step because as caulk dries it shrinks and if the gaps are wide, you'll end up with cracks in your caulk and a really messy look.
  • Get a few sheets of computer paper to back fill the gaps with it.
  • For each gap cut the paper about 2 inches wide and the length of your gap (you may need to do this in sections for longer seams.)
  • Roll each piece tightly and stuff it into the gap between the wood and the wall. (Your roll may expand a little – that’s okay). Make sure the rolled paper bridges the gap between the wall and the wood but doesn't extend beyond the wood.
  • Apply the caulk with a slightly thicker line than needed for the small gaps.
  • Run your damp finger along the line and wipe the excess.
• Front molding: Apply a very thin line of caulk. Use a toothpick to make the lines more defined (the ones that mimic the look of the cabinetry.)

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Step 25: Paint

Once everything was dry and dust-free, I applied one last coat of paint using a brush for seams and a foam roller for a flawless final coat.

And wow! The transformation is worth every step!

Pssst: I was so thrilled with how this turned out that I moved onto the kitchen and tackled our old, cluttered closet pantry. Now I can't stop looking at our new organized built-in pantry either!

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You ready to start this project?

If I can do this? You can absolutely do this. I even created a step-by-step printable guide to make it really easy for you.

Get the Printable Building Plans here - including measurements worksheets, how to create plans and a cut list, and step-by-step instructions (with images) + helpful tips that will save you time and frustration.

Final Thoughts

Built-ins don't just add storage - they completely change the feel of a room by making it look intentional, custom, and truly "yours". And once you finish a project like this, you'll feel more confident about taking on the next one.

If you're ready to create a home that functions beautifully, don't miss this helpful guide:

👉 Easy Steps to Plan a Room That Functions the Way You Want

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P.S. What if I told you there's a whole new (and way easier) way to decorate your home—without the overwhelm, indecision, or endless Pinterest scrolling.